Jisün (Mongolian term), also known as zhisunfu (Chinese: 质孙服) or Zhisun (simplified Chinese: 质孙; traditional Chinese: 質孫, also written as Chinese: 只孙 or Chinese: 直孙), zhixun (Chinese: 只逊), jixun (Chinese: 济逊), zhama (Chinese: 诈玛; Chinese: 詐馬 Persian: جامه, romanized: jāma) or Jisun (Chinese: 济孙), was a very important male Mongol garment during the Yuan dynasty. They were also known as Mongol “robes of honour” (khil’at). Yuan dynasty court . In China, the zhisun was introduced during the Yuan dynasty and was inherited by the Han Chinese during the Ming dynasty. In both the Yuan and Ming dynasty, the zhisun is a single-coloured court robe. The zhisun is a type of Mongol terlig. 63 The zhisun were made of textile woven with gold and silk of one colour. The term jisün means “colour” in Mongolian. The term zhama came from the Persian word jāmah which is translated as “garment” or “robe” or “coat” or “clothing”. The term zhisun originates from the Mongolian term jisün. In the History of the Yuan dynasty, the zhisun are defined as “a dress of the same colour” or “being of one colour” or “robe of one colour” or “dress in one colour” (Chinese: 一色服; pinyin: yisefu). The term zhixun was used in the Ming dynasty and originated from the term zhisun. The zhisun likely originated in early period of the Mongol rule; it was first introduced under the rule of Genghis Khan, but it became more elaborate after the foundation of the Yuan dynasty by Kublai Khan. In the Yuan dynasty, the zhisun was worn by the Yuan Emperors and officials. The zhisun was a ceremonial court dress which was bestowed by the Emperors to the higher-ranking officials, imperial relatives, those who had made great contributions and those who serve the emperors . It could only be worn when bestowed by the emperor as such it held an important place for every official’s political life in the Yuan dynasty; and if it was bestowed by the Emperor, the zhisun had to be worn. This dress code also combined the clothing characteristics of both the Han Chinese and the Mongol ethnicity. In 1321 AD, during the rule of Emperor Yingzong, the zhisunfu (Chinese: 质孙服) dressing code was officially formulated. In 1332 AD, an imperial edict stated that all officials and imperial guards who had been bestowed with zhisun were required to wear it during the imperial banquets, and those would pawn off their zhisun would be punished. Distinguished higher-ranking imperial officials, in particular, wore it when they would meet with the Emperors or when they would attend banquets. The participants of the jisun banquets had to be dressed in the same colour. The zhisun worn by the Han Chinese who would participate in the banquets organized by the Yuan imperial court were also bestowed by the Yuan Emperors. The zhisun could also be worn by lower-ranking singers, musicians, and security guards. In 1373 AD, the clothing of the imperial body guards was changed to the zhisun, a solid colour robe which had been inherited from the Yuan dynasty. However, it appears that there were two kind of zhisun during the banquets: the first type which was worn as a formal dress for the Yuan Emperors, his officials and the nobilities, and the second type which was worn by the servants. According to Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty and the Writings after a dream in Shining Spring (Chinese: 春明梦余录), the xiaowei all wore zhisun robe. According to the Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty, the Embroidered Uniform Guard who were on duty at the East and West City circuit and the other men in charged of whip-throwing, fan-holding, umbrella-like towel-holding also wore the zhisun. According to Understanding Elegance, the red or green robes which were made out of silk and which were worn by the Embroidered Uniform Guard was called zhixun; the zhixun was decorated with ground flowers. 29 The zhisun worn by the Yuan emperor and higher-ranking officials during court banquets typically had the same colour, design and form, with the workmanship and exquisiteness of ornaments as the difference. All the zhisun worn by Han Chinese during court banquets all the same form and design. The zhisun is described as being of a single colour. According to the History of the Yuan dynasty, the zhisun is described as not having a fixed design or form, and the summer design is different from the winter design. However, the zhisun was not made to have a fixed design or form. These robes were also different in design depending on the social classes of its wearer, but they were all referred as zhisun. For example, the emperor had 11 varieties of zhisun for the winter season and 15 varieties for summer while members of the nobility and the senior officials had 9 varieties of zhisun during winter and 14 in summer. 62-64 They were also embellished with precious stones and pearls. Wei, Luo (2018-01-02). “A Preliminary Study of Mongol Costumes in the Ming Dynasty”. The zhisun could also be made from variety of fabrics, including nasīj (or nasji; Chinese: 納石失; pinyin: Nàshíshī), silk, and wool (Chinese: 速夫; pinyin: sufu). Social Sciences in China. Shea, Eiren L. (2020). Mongol court dress, identity formation, and global exchange. Cho, Woohyun; Yi, Jaeyoon; Kim, Jinyoung (2015). “The Dress of the Mongol Empire: Genealogy and Diaspora of the “Terlig””. Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae. Acta Orientalia Academiae Scientiarum Hungaricae. Oka, Ildikó (2015). “Mongol Clothing in the Yuan Period”. Westport, Conn.: Greenwood Press. Lane, George (2006). Daily life in the Mongol empire. Cleveland Museum of Art. Metropolitan Museum of Art. E., Watt, James C. Y. Wardwell, Anne (1997). When silk was gold : Central Asian and Chinese textiles. Allsen, Thomas T. (2001). “Robing in the Mongolian Empire”. Robes and Honor : the Medieval World of Investiture. Introduction to Chinese culture : cultural history, arts, festivals and rituals. Guobin Xu, Yanhui Chen, Lianhua Xu, Kaiju Chen, Xiyuan Xiong, Wenquan Wu. Stewart Gordon. New York. Finnane, Antonia (2008). Changing clothes in China : fashion, history, nation. Schlesinger, Jonathan (2017). A world trimmed with fur : wild things, pristine places, and the natural fringes of Qing rule. The legacy of Genghis Khan : courtly art and culture in western Asia, 1256-1353. Linda Komaroff, Stefano Carboni, Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Columbia University Press. Zujie, Yuan (2007-01-01). “Dressing for power: Rite, costume, and state authority in Ming Dynasty China”. Frontiers of History in China. This page was last edited on 22 November 2024, at 14:13 (UTC). Wang, Guojun (2020). Staging personhood : costuming in early Qing drama. Text is available under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 License; additional terms may apply. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Wikipedia® is a registered trademark of the Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., a non-profit organization.
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